55/124

This Sussex smock came from Rogate and was collected by the donor's husband. It is reversible and is made of thick brown drabbet (a coarse linen) smocked with dark brown thread. It is embroidered on the front, back, shoulder straps and cuffs with feather stitch in designs of rectangles, diamonds, scrolls, and wavy lines, and the cuffs are embroidered with french knots. The date of this smock is not known.

1 smock: cotton: excellent condition; large The collar is buttoned down with 6 buttons, and the sleeves with 2 each. The pockets are set across the side seam, and have flaps fastened with buttons

Citation in publication [Oliver, Tina, 'Smocks: A Guide to the Collections' (Reading: The University of Reading, 2000)] – 'The widow of a collector donated these smocks to the collection in 1955. Correspondence shows that the seven smocks were sent by rail from Oxford Station 'packed in a Gladstone bag with good leather straps but no key', and that the donor did not want the leather bag returned, as it was no great offering being fifty years old. // 55/124 originated from Rogate, Sussex. The smock is made of heavyweight brown twill weave cotton, with dark brown decorative work. Areas of the smocking are worked to form diamonds; this is echoed and combined with small scrolls in the embroidery to the sides of the smocked panel and on the yoke. The diamond pattern is repeated on the collar, the cuffs have a single zigzag row and knots; the pocket flaps a waved line. This is a well-made reversible smock in very good condition.' p.9, MERL 'Catalogue index' card – 'This smock came from Rogate (Sussex). It is reversible and is made of thick brown drabbet smocked with dark brown thread. // The tubing at the back and front is 10 inches wide and 13 inches long, and consists of panels of diamonds, some worked with double rows of stitches and some with single. The boxes consist of rectangles made up of the diamond design with two rows of scrolls inside, divided by a line of feather stitch. This design also occurs on the shoulder straps. The collar and the bottom of the sleeve are embroidered with the diamond design only. The collar is buttoned down with 6 buttons, and the sleeves with 2 each. The pockets are set across the side seam, and have flaps fastened with buttons. // The smock is 48 inches in length from shoulder to hem, and 78 inches round the hem. It is a particularly large smock. // See also 51/258M', MERL ‘Associated information’ form - 'Description: This smock [...] is made from very heavy khaki coloured material smocked with brown. It is beautifully made + in excellent condition [Pencil sketch][page break] Collected by C.O. Skilbeck Esq deceased of [...]Bledlow [...] Aylesbury // Is it in good condition? // yes', MERL ‘Temporary Catalogue’ form – 'Sheet 1 of 2 //Identification // Class. PERSONAL clothing garment // Description: Material(s): thick brown cotton, dark brown thread // Dimensions: total length; 120cm // collar depth; 20cm (approx) // cuffs depth; 4cm // pocket flaps ht x w; 10 x 20cm // Acquisition: Method: gift // Notes (continued overleaf): Description: handsewn style; round frock // collar: two straight pieces, wide, buttoned down with 3 buttons on each side, cuffs: straight bands, two buttons on [page break] each. // pockets: set in across side seams, flap fastened with buttons // outline, cable and points // tubing: back and front, 41 rows // sleeves – tops - ?6 rows, above cuffs – 16 rows, closely spaced gathers // embroidery: feather stitch, // boxes and shoulders, scrolls and lines surrounded by diamonds // collar – diamonds // cuffs – French knots, feather stitch wavy line // Sheet 2 of 2 // Dimensions: hem circumference; 195cm // tubing back and front ht x w; 32 x 25cm, Photographic prints - [text on paper sleeve] 'Acc. No. 55/124 // Neg. Nos. 60/1121 // 60/1185 // 60/1186'

Fibre, cotton, Fibre

Stitched, Smocked, Embroidered