[nb-NO]Object number[nb-NO]
55/125/1
[nb-NO]Description[nb-NO]
This Berkshire smock came from Hungerford and was worn for farm work. A label in the back dates it to 1885. It is a reversible smock made of natural coloured drabbet (coarse linen) with matching thread. It is embroidered with feather stitch on the front, back, collar and cuffs in designs of scrolls, stems, sprigs and wavy lines. This design may refer to the gardener's craft, as the design of smocks varied with the wearer's occupation, but this one is known to have been worn on the farm. A red and white spotted handkerchief was found in the pocket.
[nb-NO]Physical description[nb-NO]
1 smock: cotton: good conditionThere is a tape beneath the collar of this smock inscribed 'Skilbeck, Hungerford, Berks. 1885'. The tubing is 23 x 29cm. The boxes contain a design including scrolls with straight stems set outside ovals of feather stitching with further scrolls and short lines of feather stitch around them. The cuffs, shoulder straps and collar have a design of wavy lines, and short sprigs of feather stitch. This design may refer to the gardener's craft, but the smock is known to have been used for ordinary farm work. It has pockets set across the side seams covered with flaps, and three buttons on each sleeve. The hem has short slits at the two side seams. There is also a red and white spotted handkerchief with the smock.
<DIV STYLE="text-align:Justify;font-family:Georgia;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;font-size:16;color:#000000;"><P><SPAN><SPAN>2. <B>Reversible smock worn by a farm worker from Hungerford, Berkshire, <I>c.</I>1885</B><P> The smock is perhaps the most recognisable garment associated with the countryside. Worn by farm labourers throughout the 1800s, they reached a peak of popularity (and decoration) around mid-century.<P> This is an example of a reversible smock, or round frock - that is, one that has an identical front and back so that it may be worn either way round. It is made of twill weave cotton, sometimes referred to as 'drabbet', and includes some fine quality embroidery.<P> The smock's economical use of material and simplicity in design helps explain much of its appeal as a functional, protective overgarment. Its shape was achieved with gathering across the chest and back and on the sleeves. This technique - now known as smocking - gave the finished garment a certain elasticity that meant it was perfect for wearing over the top of one's normal clothes. Provided a labourer was not working machinery or engaged in some other activity where it might get in the way, smocks were "in essence useful washable agricultural overalls"<P> 55/125</SPAN></SPAN></P></DIV><DIV STYLE="text-align:Justify;font-family:Georgia;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;font-size:16;color:#000000;"><P><SPAN><SPAN>2. <B>Reversible smock worn by a farm worker from Hungerford, Berkshire, <I>c.</I>1885</B><P> The smock is perhaps the most recognisable garment associated with the countryside. Yet its design is of more practical use to the shepherd and carter than the ordinary farm worker. The looseness in fit renders it a perfect 'shedder of rain', whilst, as in this case, its lack of any front or back opening makes it windproof - qualities a weather-beaten shepherd up in the hills would savour.<P> Nevertheless, the smock was still worn by farm labourers throughout the 1800s, reaching its peak of popularity (and decoration) around mid-century. This is an example of a reversible smock, or round frock - that is, one that has an identical front and back so that it may be worn either way round. It is made of twill weave cotton, sometimes referred to as 'drabbet', and includes some fine quality embroidery.<P> The smock's economical use of material and simplicity in design helps explain much of its appeal as a functional, protective overgarment. All of the pieces were usually square or rectangular, allowing for minimum wastage of material, whilst the shape of the garment was achieved with gathering across the chest and back and on the sleeves. This technique - now known as smocking - not only simplified the original pattern, but also gave the finished garment a certain elasticity that meant it was perfect for wearing over the top of one's normal clothes. Provided a labourer was not working machinery or engaged in some other activity where it might get in the way, smocks were "in essence useful washable agricultural overalls"<P> 55/125</SPAN></SPAN></P></DIV>
[nb-NO]Archival history[nb-NO]
Citation in publication [Oliver, Tina, 'Smocks: A Guide to the Collections' (Reading: The University of Reading, 2000)] – 'The widow of a collector donated these smocks to the collection in 1955. Correspondence shows that the seven smocks were sent by rail from Oxford Station 'packed in a Gladstone bag with good leather straps but no key', and that the donor did not want the leather bag returned, as it was no great offering being fifty years old. // 55/125 is dated 1885 by the donor and originaes from Hungerford, Berkshire, and was possibly worn by a farm labourer. The panels are smocked to form zigzag bands, and the embroidered panels include large ovals enclosing scrolls and 'sprigged' stems. The ovals are repeated on the yoke and collar but enclose zigzag and straight lines. Simple rows decorate the cuffs and border the smocking at the lower edge of the sleeves. The pocket flaps are plain; metal four-hole buttons fasten the cuff and sleeve opening. The reversible twill weave cotton smock is in good condition with fine quality smocking and embroidery.' p.10, MERL 'Catalogue index' card – 'There is a tape beneath the collar of this smock inscribed – Skilbeck, Hungerford, Berks, 1885. It is reversible and is made of natural coloured drabbet with matching thread. The tubing is 9 inches wide and 11.5 inches long. The boxes contain a design including scrolls with straight stems set outside ovals of feather stitching with further scrolls and short lines of feather stitch around them. The cuffs, shoulder straps and collar have a design of wavy lines, and short sprigs of feather stitch. This design may refer to the gardener’s craft, but the smock is known to have been used for ordinary farm work. It has pockets set across the side seams covered with flaps, and three buttons on each sleeve. // It measures 44 inches in length from shoulder to hem, 72 inches round the hem, which has short slits at the two side seams. In one of the pockets, there is a red and white spotted handkerchief. // See also 51/258 M’, MERL ‘Temporary Catalogue’ form – ‘Sheet 1 of 2 //Identification // Class. PERSONAL clothing garment // Description: Material(s): cream cotton, cream thread // Dimensions: total length; 110cm // collar depth; 15cm // cuffs depth; 4cm // pockets ht x w.; 6 x 20cm // […] // Notes (continued overleaf): Description: handsewn, style: round frock, short slits at hem edge on side seams; Collar: two straight pieces; cuffs: straight bands with one button on each cuff, two on sleeve above cuff. [page break] Pockets: set in across side seams, flaps // tubing: outline cable and points // back and front – 48 rows // sleeves tops – 4 rows, above cuffs – 15 rows // embroidery: feather stitch // boxes – scrolls with stems inside scrolls // collar – scrolls and short lines // cuffs and shoulders – wavy lines and short sprigs. // Sheet 2 of 2 // Dimensions: hem circumference; 180cm // tubing, back and front ht x w; 30 x 23cm., MERL ‘Associated information’ form - 'Age: 1885 // This smock is made from white material and is smocked with cream. Mrs. Skilbeck says it was used for farm work at HUNGERFORD, Berks, and is dated 1885. In a pocket is a red handkerchief with a white design. [pencil sketch] [page break] Collected by C.O. Skilbeck Esq deceased of [...]Bledlow [...] Aylesbury // How was it used // Farm Work // Is it in good condition? // yes'
[nb-NO]Date[nb-NO]
1875-01-01 - 1885-12-31
[nb-NO]Production period[nb-NO]
Late-nineteenth century
[nb-NO]Object name[nb-NO]
[nb-NO]Material[nb-NO]
[nb-NO]Technique[nb-NO]
[nb-NO]Dimensions[nb-NO]
- Length 1100 mm
- Circumference 1800 mm
[nb-NO]External document[nb-NO]
- L:\MERL\Objects\JISC 2012\60 series negatives\60_1183.tif - High resolution image
- L:\MERL\Objects\JISC 2012\60 series negatives\60_1184.tif - High resolution image