52/150

This hand-sewn reversible smock is made of white linen, embroidered with biscuit coloured twisted linen thread. The smock has not been worn. Smocking on the chest panel at the front and back, on the sleeves at the top and above the cuff. The boxes either side of the central tubing are embroidered with three hearts and zigzag lines. The shoulders and collar are also embroidered. There are two buttons on each cuff. It is patterned with a design common to Berkshire, Hampshire and Sussex smocks.

1 smock: linen; linen thread; good condition

Citation in publication [Oliver, Tina, 'Smocks: A Guide to the Collections' (Reading: The University of Reading, 2000)] – 'This linen smock, c.1880-1910, originated from north Hampshire and belonged to a farmer at Kingsclere, although it is likely that the smock was never worn, and the current condition of the garment reflects this. The reversible smock is small in size, possibly intended for wear by a young woman, and without pockets. The smocked areas are very basically stitched and the design on the embroidered panels is of simple stitched hearts and diagonal lines, with some repetition on the collar and yoke' p.7, MERL 'Catalogue index' card – ‘… // DATE ACQUIRED: // GROUP: // NEGATIVE: // PERIOD: // PLACE OF ORIGIN: // NUMBER: // DESCRIPTION: …‘ This smock belonged to Mr. Chance of Kingsclere (Hants) who sold it to Mrs. Matthews from the balance of his stock when he was selling up his business. It had probably lain in his attic for about 40 years. It has not therefore been used. // The smock is of the reversible type, made of white linen, embroidered with biscuit coloured twisted line thread. The tubing at the front and back is 6 inches broad and 9 inches long. The boxes have 3 horizontal hearts on each, the middle one pointing outwards and the others towards the tubing. They are divided by diagonal lines of stitching. The shoulder straps are similarly embroidered with the two hearts on each, facing, one towards the back and the other towards the front. The sleeve is smocked just above the cuff. The collar has a band of embroidery at the edge, consisting of a zig-zag line with a small straight line occurring in each gap between the points of the zig-zag. This pattern occurs on Berkshire, Hampshire and Sussex smocks. The hearts indicate that the smock was intended for a milkmaid. // The smock is 33 inches in length from shoulder to hem. The hem is 61 inches round and there are slits 3.75 inches long at the base of each side seam. There are two buttons on each cuff. // See also 51/258M., MERL ‘Associated information’ form – ‘Name of Object: Smock // Age…: // Name and address of present owner: Mrs Matthews [...] Wolverhampton // Description of use to which it was put…: [pencil sketch] Scanty information on additional note appears to indicate that smock made by Mr Chance of Kingsclere [page break] Smock 52/150 Hampshire // Material: unbleached linen, width 763mm (30") sh 830mm (32 1/2") ch 384mm (15 1/4") ink 153mm (6") x 220mm (8 1/4") emb 75mm (3") x 220mm (8 3/4") collar 105mm (4 1/4") shoulder strap 172mm (6 3/4") x 180mm (7 1/3") // No pockets. Hand sewn, side seams over sewn, sleeve seams flat // Embroidery in fawn thread on shoulders, collar, front and back. Feather stitching and French knots. Hearts, zigzags, lines. Smocking on front, back, top of sleeves and cuffs - front and back cuffs rope and wave stitches; rope on sleeve tops // Cuffs fasten with 2 vitreous buttons on each. 45mm wide (1 3/4") // Gusset under arms 155mm (6 1/4") x 155mm (6 1/4") Sleeve width 202mm (8") // Garment has no definite back and front, w. 55mm (2 1/2") opening at front and back // Condition: good, having apparently never been worn’, MERL Catalogue Form (temporary) – ‘Sheet 1 of 3 // Specimen Location: MERL // Collection: Id. No. 52/150 // further descr. [tick] notes // further hist. [tick] notes // Description: Materials white linen, fawn twisted linen thread, composition buttons // Condition: some staining but fabric generally good // date: 24.3.73 // Dimensions: total length 83cm // collar depth 11cm // cuffs depth 4.5cm // Interest: place of origin: Hampshire Kingsclere // owner: Mr Chance // date: 1880-1910 (1951 cat. for card) // Repr. Cur. pho.: 60/195 // Reference: // Acquisition: Source: Mrs Matthews // Method: gift // date: July 1952 //Notes (continued overleaf): PTO [verso] History: sold to donor, from balance of stock of Mr Chance of Kingsclere, probably in his attic for around 40 years. Not worn. // Description: hand sewn; style, round/neck, slits at hem side seams, with small strengthening patches on inside; collar: two straight pieces; cuffs: straight bands, one button on each cuff and one on each sleeve above cuff; tubing: outline, cable and paints, back and front - 18 rows, sleeve - top - 1 row, sleeve above cuff - 4 rows; embroidery: feather stitch, boxes and shoulders - hearts and zigzag lines, collar - zigzag lines. // Cataloguing Cataloguer: LCB // of: MERL // date: 12.3.73 [page break] Sheet 2 of 3 // tubing, back and front, ht x w: 23 x 16cm // tubing, sleeves, top, ht x w: 4 x 3cm // tubing, sleeves above cuff, ht x w: 8 x 9cm // [page break] Sheet 3 of 3 // hem circumference: 152.5cm // side split length: 9cm‘

1880 - 1910

Late-nineteenth century, Early-twentieth century

Stitched, Embroidered

Chance (Agent)